ACADIA NATIONAL PARK

 One of the nation's most iconic parks is nestled along the Maine coast near the village of Bar Harbor.  It is a place of rocky mountain peaks and rugged coast line.  We got to spend a day there in July...an can't wait to return. 

Located on Mt. Desert Island, the park offers many oppotunities to hike, boat, photograph, and meditate on the wonders of God's creation. We only booked a day and half to explore Bar Harbor and Acadia.  You really need to spend a week there!  We were greeted by a spectacular sunset at Bar Harbor! 

The only plans we made for our visit was to reserve entry to Cadillac Mountain at sunrise...but we were only able to get a 6:30 AM time...no problem...the mountain was fogged in and we just got an extra hour to sleep!

Ole Sol did not disappoint and about 6:45 broke through and greeted us with the same beauty as we saw the night before.   Cadillac Mountain is the tallest mountain on the Atlantic coastline. At 1506 feet it is a small peak that is accessible by a winding paved road.  At the peak is a gift shop and many rock paved trails.  Visitors are permitted to venture off the trail as long as they traverse over the rocky slopes.  The vista is of a spectacular seascape...even fogged in, it is specatacular! 

This is a very social mountain...we visited mid week and even with regulated times there is an abundance of tourists.  Get an early time to avoid the crowd and hope the fog lifts... during our visit it was mid afternoon by the time the fog lifted.  Next time we visit we will take an afternoon time.  

"Everybody needs beauty as well as bread. places to play in and pray in, where nature may heal and give strength to body and soul alike" - John Muir

On the trip down the mountain we paused to take in the view of one of the numerous glacially created lakes in the park. This one is called "Bubble Lake".  

There are many such lakes in the park.  Most have hiking paths around them. We visited Jordan Lake as well but it was completely fogged in.  

The tourist accessible part of the Park is accessed off of a loop road.  The northern portion is a two way road and covers the less social part of the park.  Hiking trails and lakes are surrounded by small peaks.  The southern part of the loop road is the tourist area and requires a park pass.  It encompasses the iconic seascape.  We ventured south after lunch.  It was moderately crowded.

Sand Beach is a popular swimming hole.

It is a cove surrounded by small cliffs running from each end of the beach.  Small breakwater provides a cool swim for the eager beachcomers. I was more interested in taking pictures and the best one right behind me.  You see the "Beehive" mountain overlooks Sand Beach. It is a popular climbing destination as I counted over 20 hikers on its slopes.  But I captured its reflection in a tidal pool. Gonna climb that mountain next time I go to Acadia!

Leaving Sand Beach we hiked up the seacoast trail toward Thunder Hole.  Along the way there were many spur trails each with an enticing view of the seacoast.

The trail is adorned with summer flowers. We were there between low and high tides at a time when there was calm seas and following winds.  The path to Thunder Hole was covered with people...everyone trying to get a glimpse of the seacoast.  It was hard to find many serene places to "Play and Pray". Nevertheless, the glimpses were enough to"heal"the soul.

Several excursion cruise ships leave Bar Harbor for sightseeing and I was able to take a picture of who cutting the waves off Thunder Hole. 

Another bucket list moment for me as if we could have stayed another day I would have hitched a ride on this boat!

Thunder Hole is one of the most interesting places in the park.  It attracts thousands of visitors and if the tide is not up...it is a nothing burger. You there is a seaside cave that during high tide water is forced in and blows out the top.  We never saw it and no we talked with had seen it during our visit but still people collected around and watched the water.

Maybe on an return visit we can go at a time when the sea is a bet more angry and get a show,

The last place we visited was Otter Hole sans the otters...less tourists but still busy...they say it is a place that otters visit.

Shout out to our host for the trip to Bar Habour...Queen Anne's Revenge is the only place for North Carolinians to stay.

The views off Bar Harbor as just as beautiful as those along the coast of Acadia.  We took time to enjoy a walk along the coast line as well as along the streets of this charming village.

Make this trip a bucket list destination for you.  But spend at least three days there.  If you are a hiker...check out the many trails in Acadia...especially the hike up Beehive Mountain.   This a is a 10+ destination.

HUNGRY MOTHER STATE PARK

 NEW YEARS DAY HIKE AROUND THE LAKE

Hungry Mother State Park just outside of Marion Virginia is one of the most picturesque state parks I have visited.  Nestled in between small mountains is a lake built by the Civilian Conservation Corps in the 1930's.  We visited here a few years back to hike Molly's Knob and vowed to return to do the lake loop.  Molly's Knob Hike

The lake is on the shore of State Highway 16.  The highway between Marion and Tazewell, is known as the "Back of the Dragon".  It is a popular curvy highway across three mountain peaks driven by motor cyclists and sports car enthusiasts. Along the western shore of the lake is a beach, cabins and event venues.  It is a busy place during the summer as the lake is well used by canoes, kayaks and fishermen.  But on New Years Day, we had the place mostly to ourselves.

The sign on the trail told us that is was a six mile loop around the lake.  A moderate "leisurely" hike!  So we thought.  On a cold 32 degree morning we parked alongside Route 16 and proceeded in a clockwise direction toward the beach and cabin area.  Flakes of snow greeted us as we got near the cabins but appropriately attired for the weather, the Fat Bald Guy and his Faithful Hiking companion trudged on.  Looking across the lake, I could not see the "leisurely" trail and worried that those hills we saw to the east would have to be climbed!

One of the neat features of Hungry Mother State Park is an island with an ampitheater connected to the mainland by an arched wooden bridge. On New Years Day, we were the only people on that island, and one of no more than ten people in the entire park. 

From the banks of the island there were wonderful views of the length and breadth of this wonderful mountain lake.  I still kept looking for that "leisurely" moderate trail along the banks of the eastern shore of the lake...but still couldn't see it!

Not far from the island, we crossed the bridge for the road up to the Molly's Knob trailhead and hustled down a narrow trail. About the time we got even with the island on the other side of the lake, we discovered what I feared.  There was no "leisurely" moderate lakeside trail on the eastern side of the lake...instead is was a typical mountain hike up a pretty steep rock incline.  The well marked and maintained trail snaked up and down the small mountains and through every ravine of each stream that fed the Hungry Mother Lake. It was not a moderate trail, but it was a fair trek for News Year's Day for the Fat Bald White Guy and his Faithful Companion 

Gone were the picturesque views of the lake. In    fact we joked that this could not be a lake loop as we could not see a lake.  It was a hardy workout through Appalachian woods and caused me to consider the magnitude of the challenge for the young men of the Civilian Conservation Corps in the 1930's.  Carving a camp, a lake, a dam and all the logistics such an project requires from this wilderness is most impressive. In fact, the folks at the State Park converted a bunkhouse into a museum that chronicled the effort.  Be sure to check that out when you visit there.  What was left for us to see was the remnants of a dynamite shed. now turned into a camping spot.

Eventually the trail snakes around to the southeastern corner of the lake where there is a boat launch and pier.  It's deceptive as it made us think the hike was about over and there would be no more trudging up and down mountainsides...not true for as soon as we crossed the bridge to the other side of the lake, there was yet another hill to climb.  These were not as steep, but we were also quite tired knowing we had at least 2 more miles to trudge to get to our car.  But alas we perservered, our spirits kindled by occasional forest window views of the sun reflecting on cold snow mountainsides in the distance. 

We soon found ourselves on a muddy descent to the dam only to find that the trail did not cross the dam but snaked around the base of the dam.  We soon discovered the reason for this path was the presence of a the spillway.  A magnificent piece of engineering as the spillway is both very practical and very beautiful.   And besides it marked the begining of the last mile of our hike, so we thought! 

Turns out the trail was not six miles but in fact closer to seven. And if as we have learned anything it is that mountain miles feel so much longer than city miles. So as we trudged along nursing sore feet and chilly weather we paused to enjoy the beauty of the hillsides we just climbed.  The lake in the winter is just as pretty as it is in the summer.  Having the hike mostly to ourselves was also a treat. 

Rating the hike is pretty easy....the effort to view ratio is pretty good...the mountainside hike was challenging as it was long and at time strenuous.  It is still a hike most anyone can do, but it is not at all "leisurely". Access is easily a 10...the scenery a 9 only because so much of the hike is deep in the woods and you don't get a full view of the lake...well maintained and marked trail.  A solid 9+ venture.  Be sure to visit this place as it is easy to get to and a grand place to visit.

ADDENDUM

Shout out to Marion Virgina.  Not exactly NYC on New Year's Eve but a great small town to visit.  On the last night of 2023 we stayed at the historic General Francis Marion Hotel on the main drag, next to the iconic Lincoln Theatre home of PBS "Song of the Mountain"

We ate supper at Macado Restaurant which is in the old post office.  It is filled with wonderful eclectic artifacts of history and film and features a sumptous menu and ice cold beer.  That's about as much excitement as the Fat Bald White Guy and his Faithful Hiking Companion can handle these days...we left early only because the bar area was full of much younger and more local patrons than met our current demographics...or should I say geriatrics!

One of the most interesting aspects of local lore displayed in Macado's was the story of the bearded lady. Annie Jones was born in Marion Virgina in 1865 and was rented out to P.T Barnum when she was but a baby.  Here story is told in this link: The Bearded Lady

This picture was of interest to us as one of my son's best friends is a dead ringer for the bearded lady.  When you visit make sure you have a drink to the Bearded Lady of Marion Virginia....it has to be good luck on New Years Eve!

We enjoyed the last sunset of 2023 on Walker's Mountain. 

 "In the quiet of the evening, we reflect on the year's journey, grateful for the memories painted in the canvas of the setting sun"- Mortimer Peabody

The Fat Bald White Guy and his Faithful Hiking Companion have been hiking for over a decade now.  This blog has had over 225,000 views!  I am humbled to know that our journeys have brought smiles, and curiosity to the reader.  If it has made you get out and enjoy God's creation, then our goal has been accomplished.  If you have marveled at our pictures, all I can do is quote Jamey Johnson, "you shoulda seen it in color" Hopefully, our trail reviews have been helpful. For truthfully, if the Fat Bald White Guy can do the hike...so can you!  See you on the trails in 2024!

GREAT SMOKY MOUNTAINS NATIONAL PARK - CADES COVE

 CADES COVE

One of the most scenic drives in the Great Smoky National Park is the 11.2 mile loop in the Tennessee mountains near the village of Townsend.

Cades Cove is a high mountain valley.  The area was inhabited by Cherokee in the late 18th century.  Little is known of the extent of the settlement, but the name of the area is believed to have been named for a Cherokee named "Chief Kade".

John Oliver moved his family to the Cove in 1818.  More settlers arrived in 1821.  By 1850, there were over 600 residents of the Cove.  The community became a self sufficient thriving village.  Farms small and large grew crops, cleared pastures for livestock and erected several churches. Homesteads dotted the countryside. 

Like many in Eastern Tennessee, folks in Cades Cove remained loyal to the Union and during the war suffered from Confederate Bushwacker raids which resulted in the death of several residents and the confiscation of crops and livestock.  

After the war, the community became less vibrant and it was not until after the turn of the century that the community regained population and began to thrive again. Due in part to illegal moonshine stills and logging industry

 But the federal government had some ideas about Great Smoky Mountains.  In 1926, the Great Smoky Mountains National Park was created.  By the 1930, much of the Cove had been condemned and the residents relocated. The Civilian Conservation Corps went to work developing the park. Some residents of the Cove remained with "life leases" but by the late 1940's, the abandoned community was turned into a large meadow with a few historic structures left as "cultural exhibits".

Driving the loop is a great experience that thousands enjoy every year.  A slow drive through the Cove provides stunning views of surrounding mountains, pastures and woodlands.

It is also a wildlife sanctuary. During our drive we saw many deer, wild turkey and even a family of black beer!

Strict rules keep tourist at a distance from the animals but we got some great pictures of deer.

Cades Cove has a great campground, bike shop and many trails.  On Wednesday, automobiles are prohibited and the loop is full of  hikers and bicycles. 

The many remaining the historical buildings and cultural exhibits provide many opportunities to stop and walk in the footsteps of the early pioneers of Cades Cove. 

My favorite building was the grist mill that is found at Stop 11.  There the Cove's visitor's center offers a rest stop with a country store and several interesting farm buildings.  The centerpiece is the John P. Cable Grist Mill.  The mill was constructed in the 1870's and is a fully operational waterwheel driven grist mill. 

At the peak of the Cove's population in the 19th century, the community supported at least three other mills, all water driven.  In the 1920's the Ledbetter steam mill opened. 

The Cable Mill is in excellent condition and is period correct in every respect.  On our visit we watching the Park Ranger grind corn into meal.  

Still along the 11.2 miles of one way paved road, it is the constant views that drew our attention.  The mountains were laced with clouds as we arrived in the morning.  Smoky Mountains greeted us hiding the sun. 

After hiking Abram's Falls trail we took another loop around the Cove and headed down the Rich Mountain Trail to Townsend Tennessee.  By that time the sun had burned off the clouds and the mountains majesty was on full display.

The Cades Cove Loop is a wonderful "Motor Park Trail".  Access is easy from Gatlinburg and Pigeon Forge area as it is about a 45 minute drive along some really scenic highways.  The scenery is off the charts good.  The effort to view ratio does not apply...so rating this trail is pretty easy.  If you visit the Great Smoky Mountain National Park.  Spend a day at Cades Cove.  Ride the loop a couple times, visit the buildings and exhibits, and take a hike to Abram's Falls!  But most of all visit the Cable Grist Mill and watch the water turn to the old wheel!

This deer was not five feet from the pavement and was content to eat without giving one thought to the passing cars...majestic young 8 pointer!