GREAT SMOKY MOUNTAINS NATIONAL PARK - CADES COVE

 CADES COVE

One of the most scenic drives in the Great Smoky National Park is the 11.2 mile loop in the Tennessee mountains near the village of Townsend.

Cades Cove is a high mountain valley.  The area was inhabited by Cherokee in the late 18th century.  Little is known of the extent of the settlement, but the name of the area is believed to have been named for a Cherokee named "Chief Kade".

John Oliver moved his family to the Cove in 1818.  More settlers arrived in 1821.  By 1850, there were over 600 residents of the Cove.  The community became a self sufficient thriving village.  Farms small and large grew crops, cleared pastures for livestock and erected several churches. Homesteads dotted the countryside. 

Like many in Eastern Tennessee, folks in Cades Cove remained loyal to the Union and during the war suffered from Confederate Bushwacker raids which resulted in the death of several residents and the confiscation of crops and livestock.  

After the war, the community became less vibrant and it was not until after the turn of the century that the community regained population and began to thrive again. Due in part to illegal moonshine stills and logging industry

 But the federal government had some ideas about Great Smoky Mountains.  In 1926, the Great Smoky Mountains National Park was created.  By the 1930, much of the Cove had been condemned and the residents relocated. The Civilian Conservation Corps went to work developing the park. Some residents of the Cove remained with "life leases" but by the late 1940's, the abandoned community was turned into a large meadow with a few historic structures left as "cultural exhibits".

Driving the loop is a great experience that thousands enjoy every year.  A slow drive through the Cove provides stunning views of surrounding mountains, pastures and woodlands.

It is also a wildlife sanctuary. During our drive we saw many deer, wild turkey and even a family of black beer!

Strict rules keep tourist at a distance from the animals but we got some great pictures of deer.

Cades Cove has a great campground, bike shop and many trails.  On Wednesday, automobiles are prohibited and the loop is full of  hikers and bicycles. 

The many remaining the historical buildings and cultural exhibits provide many opportunities to stop and walk in the footsteps of the early pioneers of Cades Cove. 

My favorite building was the grist mill that is found at Stop 11.  There the Cove's visitor's center offers a rest stop with a country store and several interesting farm buildings.  The centerpiece is the John P. Cable Grist Mill.  The mill was constructed in the 1870's and is a fully operational waterwheel driven grist mill. 

At the peak of the Cove's population in the 19th century, the community supported at least three other mills, all water driven.  In the 1920's the Ledbetter steam mill opened. 

The Cable Mill is in excellent condition and is period correct in every respect.  On our visit we watching the Park Ranger grind corn into meal.  

Still along the 11.2 miles of one way paved road, it is the constant views that drew our attention.  The mountains were laced with clouds as we arrived in the morning.  Smoky Mountains greeted us hiding the sun. 

After hiking Abram's Falls trail we took another loop around the Cove and headed down the Rich Mountain Trail to Townsend Tennessee.  By that time the sun had burned off the clouds and the mountains majesty was on full display.

The Cades Cove Loop is a wonderful "Motor Park Trail".  Access is easy from Gatlinburg and Pigeon Forge area as it is about a 45 minute drive along some really scenic highways.  The scenery is off the charts good.  The effort to view ratio does not apply...so rating this trail is pretty easy.  If you visit the Great Smoky Mountain National Park.  Spend a day at Cades Cove.  Ride the loop a couple times, visit the buildings and exhibits, and take a hike to Abram's Falls!  But most of all visit the Cable Grist Mill and watch the water turn to the old wheel!

This deer was not five feet from the pavement and was content to eat without giving one thought to the passing cars...majestic young 8 pointer!

Great Smoky Mountains - Abram's Falls

 ABRAM'S FALLS

One of the most picturesque waterfalls in the Great Smoky Mountain National Park is Abram's Falls located in the Cades Cove area of the park near Townsend Tennessee.

The trailhead is located off the Cades Cove loop.  At Stop #10, just across a small bridge, there is an access road and large parking area.  From reviews, this trail can get very social...so we got there early on a Friday morning.  

 The trail is listed at 2.52 miles to the base of the falls...Of course, mountain miles are always longer than flatland miles...I recorded a 2.80 hike from my car in the parking lot to the base of the falls.  The Trail begins with the first of six water crossings. 

Abram's Creek flows alongside the length of the trail and provides many forest vistas and opportunities to fly fish the fast flowing waters.

The trail is easily divided into three sections broken by manageable but moderately hard climbs...especially if you hike on a warm morning in the middle of July...the distance is deceiving...the hills make you earn the view on the way in and pay for it on the way out.

The trail is wide, generally smooth but strewn with
rock.  If you take plenty of water and take your time and you can make the hike without issues.  We saw way too many people without water and with small children.  I don't think they were ready for the trail and actualy feared for their well being.

Interspersed between the hills are wonderful creek crossings.  Tributaries flowing in the main creek required bridging and the trail builders created one way log bridges...fortunately with a nice and sturdy handrail. 

Not exactly the halfway point but a good stopping point nonetheless is the peak of the last hill before the descent to the falls.  This peak is marked by a large rock formation.  This is a great way to stop and take a breather.  The descent down is steep and longer than expected.  

At the bottom of the hill is the next to last bridge and from there you can hear the massive roar of the nearby waterfall.

The waterfall is very striking...immediately you notice the power of the flow as the water is forced between two solid rock walls. I stopped to take in the view from a distance while others played near the falls.  Framed by an overhanging tree, I sat on a river rock and marveled at the remarkable display of nature's beauty and power.

There were only three other parties of hikers at the falls when we arrived...maybe 10 other folks...and each took their turn taking photos next to the falls.  The roar was deafening but one thing that was apparent, the waterfall is not very tall, maybe 25 feet tall.  Nevertheless is was an imposing sight.

The waterfall is framed by solid rock walls.  One of the most picturesque waterfalls we have seen.  Check out this video and you will understand what I am describing: 

"A waterfall cannot be silent, just as wisdom. When they speak the voice of power speaks"-                        Mehmet Murat IIdan

We could have stayed for hours at this waterfall.  There were not many people with us and most were doing as we were.  One lady even sat the base of the waterfall in a yoga pose meditating...I took several pictures which I have made into a collage

We met a wonderful family from Iowa.  I gave them my card and told them I would make them famous.  I hope they enjoyed their first day in the Great Smokies as much as we enjoyed our second day!  But remember what I said about the trail making you pay for the view you earned on the way in by the hike out...and you know how much I hate steps!

The hike out begins with a nearly a half mile incline.  Not overly steep but constant.  Two more smaller inclines follow. On a hot day if you have not hydrated, this part of the trail will not be fun.  But taking your time it is a very manageable hike out.  And remember that big rock...you will stop for a breather coming out, I guarantee you will need it!

So how do I rate this hike?  It is a good one!  Access is easy...just get on the Cades Cove Loop and look for the sign to the right after you cross a small bridge... just past stop #9...large parking lot next to the trail head...it would be a solid ten but for the terribly maintained pit toilets...so let's give it a 9...the trail is well marked and maintained so give it a 10....the scenery is spectacular espcially with the trail following the creek from above...the effort to view ratio is danged near perfect!  Clean up the pit toilets and this would be a solid 10 hike!

Listen to my commentary....it should tell you what you need to know about this hike!

"There is a waterfall in every dream.  Cool and crystal clear, it falls gently on the sleeper, cleansing the mind and soothing the soul" - Virginia Alison                                              

THE GREAT SMOKY MOUNTAINS - MAX PATCH

 Part Two:  MAX PATCH MOUNTAIN

Called the "crown jewel of the AppalachianTrail" the top of this mountain was cleared by farmers in the 19th century to pasture cattle.  In the early part of the 20th century, it was even used as a airstrip!  Fending off developers, the US Forest Service purchased the property in 1982. In 1984 the Appalachian Trail was relocated to cross this vista. However preserved it is a wonderful mountain bald from which you can marvel at the beauty of the surrounding mountains.  This area is an example of the preservation work of folks of the 20th century. 

You access the Patch easily by exiting Interstate 40 around mile post 7 near the Tennessee line at Harmon Den Road and following the gravel forest road up the mountain for about 8 miles.  There you intersect with Max Patch Road and soon find the small parking lot.  Of course, if you want a more adventurous trip, take the Hurricane Creek Trail as it intersects the Max Patch Road in about the same location of the Harmon Den Road. 

From the trailhead, there is a sign indicating that the summit is only 4/10ths of a mile away.  Well, mountain miles are not the same as flatland miles...it is 4/10th of a mile to the trailhead to the summit...and another 4/10th of a mile to the summit.  The trail wraps around the base of the ridge and is not very strenuous even on a hot July afternoon.  With storm clouds threatening we had to hustle to get to the summit and thinking it was only a half mile away we were sorely disappointed as we rounding the bend

On the back side of the ridge, the Appalachian Trail continues but the summit trail begins.  The trail offers a sharp incline culminating in over 90 steps to reach the more or less level mountain bald.  Did I tell you we were worried about a thunderstorm?  

Peering down from the top of the 92nd step, I understood why so many folks rave about the views from a top the patch.  The real problem is just what view to take in and what view to photograph.  A real scenic overload accented by a threatening sky.  Hope my photographs can aptly reflect the awesome majesty of what I was seeing.  

Layers of midsummer vegetation dotted with wildflowers accented layers of surrounding pastures, and layers of mountains near and far, their shadows merging into blue sky.  And of course layers of steadily moving clouds.

From the top of the stairs, the path to the summit winds around the ridge rising above the parking lot and looping to a large meadow at the peak of the mountain top.

Oh, did I mention the wildflowers? Everywhere you looked a different adornment of flowers of every size and color.  

Then there were colorful yellow birds flying around
like butterflies. The Patch is a preserve for the Yellow Warbler. The small birds are very fast and hard to photograph but I finally got one to pause on a tree limb.  

From the summit, there were even more choices for the
photos  It really would have been nice to have packed a lunch and spent the afternoon on top of Max Patch Mountain.  The peak is 4629 feet in altitude.  Looking to the east on a clear day you can see Mt. Mitchell.  Today the clouds obscured a clear view on the Grande Dame of the Appalachians.  

What can I say about this place.  A really convenient access from Interstate 40.  A mile hike to the summit and views that absolutely destroy my effort to view ratio.  This a must stop for anyone traveling to Tennessee from North Carolina.

  A solid 10 hike.  My pictures cannot aptly describe the beauty of this place.  Make a trip to the Patch as you will not regret the experience.